9 JAN 2006 VTX 1300 TIPS Please be advised various people provide these tips. They are not to be used as gospel.
They are general guidelines. If you see or try a tip that is not correct please E-mail me at syntheticoil@mchsi.com
Some files are PDF files and require the Adobe reader to open them. If you need the Adobe reader you can download it free here http://www.adobe.com/ CLICK ON THE TIP YOU WANT..
Please let me know if a link or picture does not open. syntheticoil@mchsi.com
New Amsoil Air and Oil filter
ALARM, INSTALLING THE GORILLA ALARM
AIR BOX LEAK BACK FIRE FROM 3” DD HK
BEETLEBAGS (INSTALLING)
BRAKE PAD, REAR, CHANGING
BRAKE PAD, FRONT, CHANGING
BRAKE COVER
BUB'S JUG HUGGERS, INSTALLATION CHECKING YOUR TUNING CLEANING THE BIKE CLEANING SPOKE WHEELS CLOCK IN MIRROR CLOCK ON WINDSHIELD CLOCK ON TOP COVER ON TANK CLUTCH SPRINGS, CHANGING CHROME DRIVESHAFT COVER COBRA LIGHTBAR INSTALLATION ON MEMPHIS SHADES
CUSTON SPEEDO COVER ADDED 25 Oct 2008 DRIVETRAIN LASH ENGINE OIL, CHECKING
ENGINE OIL CHECKING, 1300 MANUAL IS WRONG ENGINE OIL, CHANGING ENGINE OIL, WHAT TO USE
EXHAUST CRUSH GASKETS, CHEAPER THAN OEM
EXHAUST CRUSH GASKETS, REMOVING
EXHAUST NUTS, TIGHTENING FINAL DRIVE OIL CHECK FINAL DRIVE OIL CHANGE
FLOOR BOARDS, SCRAPING
FORKSPRINGS, INSTALLING PROGRESSIVE FRONT WHEEL/SUSPENSION/STEERING TORQUE VALUES
GASKETS, ENGINE OIL AND FINAL DRIVE PLUGS GRIPS (ISO) GRIPS (ISO) HAND GRIPS (with Pictures) HANDLEBAR WOBBLE
HANDLEBAR VIBRATION HEADLIGHT RATTLE HIGH BEAM INDICATOR (DIMMING) HIGHWAY BARS HIGHWAY PEGS AND SAFETY CONCERN HK HEAT SHIELDS INSTALLED HONDALINE LIGHTBAR, INSTALLING HONDALINE WINDSHIELD. INSTALLING IGNITION SWITCH REMOVING KURYAKYN ISOs LAYDOWN LICENSE PLATE LED BIKE LIGHTS LIGHT BAR ADJUSTMENT LIGHTBAR LIGHTS, KEEPING THEM ON WITH HIGH BEAMS LOWERING THE BIKE OIL, CHECKING OIL, CHANGING
OIL, CHANGING THE FILTER ONLY
OIL LEAK, POTENTIAL OIL PRESSURE GAUGE, ADDING TO YOUR VTX OIL, SYNTHETIC, FOR THE VTX PIPES, DRILLING YOUR OWN PIPES PAINT SWIRLS PAIR VALVE, ELIMINATING PAIR VALVE, REMOVAL Part II Sherms Covers
PAIR VALVE, REMOVAL, ROOGIE'S PHOTOS
PARTS ON MICROFICHE
PROGRESSIVE FORK SPRINGS (INSTALLING) RADIATOR COVER (INSTALL) RATTLE, FAN
RATTLE, FRONT FENDER ADDED 22 JULY 06 RATTLE, SPEEDO REAR TIRE, REMOVING REJETTING SPREADSHEET BY RICH OF VTOXA
REJETTING BY ROADBIKE MAGAZINE REJETTING, USING DIAL-A-JET
REJETTING, TROUBLESHOOTING
REJETTING, CHANGING MAIN JET REMOVING 1300 FROM GAS TANK REMOVING SEAT LOGO RISERS RPM AND SHIFTING RPM VERSUS MPH SADDLEBAGS SHIFTER ADJUSTMENT SHOCKS, REAR, INSTALLING NEW ONES
SPEEDOMETER HEALER SPARKPLUGS, INSTALLING NEW PLUGS AND READING THE CONDITION SPUTTERING AND POPPING
SPUTTERING, COLD WEATHER SQUEAKY FORKS STEERING BEARING TEST STICKER REMOVAL
TRAILER HITCH THROTTLE, ADJUSTING TUNING AFTERMARKET PIPES TUNING-CHECKING YOUR TUNING
TURN SIGNAL BEEPER
TURN SIGNAL SILENCER VALVE SPECS FOR THE 1300 VALVE ADJUSTING MANUAL PICS (PDF FILE) VALVE ADJUSTING PICS BY POISON (PDF FILE)
VEYPOR DATA ACQUISITION, INSTALLATION VTX1800 PARTS THAT FIT THE 1300 WINDSHIELD BUFFETING WOBBLE AND FRONT END CLUNK
SQUEAKY FORKS I have a 2003 1300 and have had a problem with my forks squeaking. It first started about 4 months ago, I applied some fork oil to the bottom of the forks and rocked the bike up and down and the squeak went away for a while. Now it is back again. What is wrong with these forks? What can I do to fix this? Posted By: sgottsch2 Date: Saturday, 9 November 2002, at 7:44 p.m. In Response To: Squeaky forks (BK) I had the same problem. One of the fork bushings was damaged and was causing the squeak. I’m still waiting on the part, but I think replacing the bushing should solve the problem. Try grabbing the bottom of the fork cover and jiggling it. If the bushing is in good shape it shouldn't really move. if the bushing is damaged, there will be a lot of play and the fork cover will feel lose. Hopefully this is of some help. Squeaky Fork (also) I had the same problem on my 2004 VTX 1300R, took it to the dealer and this is what they told me. This is a common problem. A plastic sleeve inside the fork causes the squeak. The squeak is the plastic rubbing against the chrome/plastic. It gets worse/noisier when dirt gets in between there. Use WD-40 regularly, or silicon. Cantex part of the Texas X Riders
********************************************** INSTALLATION OF HONDALINE LIGHT BAR From JKP1300 I FINALLY got my light bar and the installation went fine. The only a couple of things made it difficult. The original turn signal (TS) harnesses are too short and the "new" TS brackets aren't keyed right. The wiring harness connectors make it into the light housing, but just barely. The way the TS brackets are keyed causes them to be turned in (cross-eyed). I just filed the keyhole a little and got them straight. Also, attaching the light assembly and TS onto the bar is very tight and causes some cussing. Overall, the Hondaline light bar and windshield are very high quality parts. If it would quit raining I'd try it out!
************************************* LIGHTBAR LIGHTS-KEEPING THEM ON WITH HIGH BEAMS If you are interested in keeping your driving lights on during the high beam, this is an easy solution. 1. Take the front headlight rim off. 2. Find the mini connector with the blue, green and split color orange wire. The blue wire is your high beam, the green the ground and the orange your low beam wires. These wires go to the relay and tell the relay which beam is working. 3. Snip the blue wire on one side of the connector and tape it. 4. Your driving lights will now stay on in both upper beam and lower beam. The relay will not switch them off. The driving lights being on will now result in about the same wattage as 2 headlights for cars. When you switch to high beam, you end up with close and far coverage. Mine work great. And This too…. From: jaustin To: bikerdj111@mchsi.com Sent: Monday, August 02, 2004 3:24 AM Subject: light bar mod Hey NC, I did the light bar mod on my 04 VTX 1300 to keep the bar on while the high beams are on. I did not have the same wiring as listed in the write up on your page. It tells you to find the connector with the blue, green and split orange wire. I did not have one. What I did was find the relay plug that comes with the light bar and found that the blue wire is the high beam wire and cut it. Worked like a charm. you may want to add that to your info site, which is great by the way and thank you for sharing it with us. Sincerely, James Austin ************************************ BRAKE COVER We just got in the new brake reservoir cover by Big Bike Parts. Its all metal and made in one piece and doesn't melt like some of the plastic versions. Part number BIG-55111
************************************************* HIGHWAY BARS I just heard back from Shawn at National Cycle. The highway bars for the 2003 VTX 1300 S (Retro) will be shipping in mid November. They are taking orders now for Part # P4011, $149.95, plus $10.50 S&H. 877-972-7336. www.nationalcycle.com
****************************************************** REMOVING “1300” FROM THE GAS TANK I took 4 to 5 long pieces of waxed dental floss and started at the thin side and worked my way forward, back and forth (up and down).Takes about 5 to 10 min. Then I used the Goof off to remove the glue. Came out perfect. Jim OR They are held on by very strong doublesided tape. I used a hair dryer and heated the emblems until I could peel off the nameplates. I then kept heating the remaining goop on the tank and rolled it off with my thumb. It took about 20-30 minutes a side. I also used goof-off adhesive remover to help break down the glue. Then I cleaned and waxed the tank. I also used this same process to remove the two honda emblems on the chrome side covers. Piece of cake. MR MOJO
OR
From Clayton Root
I had mine off in less than 2 minutes per side and required nothing more than 3M Gloss Enhancer to remove the VERY minor residue left behind. By the way, this stuff has worked amazingly on my windshield ever since I got the bike. It literally appears to dissolve bugs. But I digress. Working in the technical community at 3M definitely has it's advantages. Although the mounting system used by Honda for our badges is not 3M's, it is similar to the construction of our VHB (Very High Bond) mounting tape. There IS a SECRET to getting this stuff off easily. Fight it and you will be cursing for most of the day and may even lose some blood. First, I used Dental Floss in a kind of sawing action from front to rear of the emblem being careful to exert force away from the gastank (paint). Wear gloves or the Dental Floss will cut through your fingers. This step took about a minute per side and left behind a layer of the mounting foam tape. Now here's where the secret comes in. DO NOT try to pull this material away from the tank surface, ie perpendicular to the tank. Trying to roll it up with your thumb is equally distressing. Rather, get ahold of an edge and apply slight but continuous tension in the longitudinal direction, ie towards the front or back of the bike. The material will stretch and the adhesive will literally fall away from the tank. Don't pull too hard or the material will break and you'll have to get hold of another edge. Slower is faster when it comes to removing adhesives. I had virtually nothing left adhering to the paint so no goo-gone or citrus cleaners were required. My bike was two years old when I did this and I can't notice any differences in tank color where the badges were. People who have fought with trying to remove these materials are flabbergasted when they see how easy it is using the right process. It is the same principle as removing 3M's Command Adhesive used on Coat Hooks and Picture Hangars without damaging wall surfaces. I got a great chuckle at a PT Cruiser event where a guy had been trying to remove taillight covers for over an hour. He'd broken two fingernails and was bleeding so he went cursing into his hotel room to patch himself up. While he was gone, I showed his 8 year old son how to remove the stuff. When dad came out a few minutes later, this kid had the job done on the other side. "How the hell did you do that" was his exclaim of disbelief. Adhesives. Gotta love 'em.
************************************************** DRIVE TRAIN LASH Check the throttle play. Some bikes were delivered with some excessive play in the throttle (including mine) which exacerbated the drive train lash. After the play was taken out the lash was a lot less, but you will always have some lash from a shaft drive. It's the nature of the beast. Hope this helps.
****************************************** INSTALLING HONDA WINDSHIELD Those are good prices. Re: Installing yourself - the windshield is easy. The light bar requires removing your front turn signals and remounting them on the light bar. The directions are pretty good. I did it without any help and I am no wrench head (unfortunately). If you can - try to do both at the same time - do not tighten down the actual lamps until you get the shield on, they will be in the way. Just hand tighten the lamp mounting bolts until you get the shield on - fold them forward and the shield will go on. If I remember right I did the entire windshield first to get the angles right on the fork mounts - removed the shield but not the mounts in order to keep the shield out of the way - then did light bar. Did not tighten down lamps, mounted windshield, then tightened lamps. ******************************************************** There are a number of articles on rejetting. Be sure to read the last one by RICH. It starts at "LAST ONE".
REJETTING THIS WAS GIVEN BY MAVERICK'S ON THE VTXOA TECH FORUM. Please read this note from Justin before starting. And the one from Highmiles also. Well I just got done installing my jet-kit. From pre disassembled to completely reassembled and running, including installing new spark plugs, took just under 1 1/2 hours, without too many surprises. The instructions supplied by "maverickgs", his pictures, and the instructions sent with the jet-kit made the whole process quite easy. I will give just a few extra tips that might help some people. 1. Before I started tearing into everything, I shut off the fuel valve and ran the bike until it ran all the gas out of the carburetor and the engine died. This might help a little with not making too much of a mess of spilled fuel. 2. When trying to remove the gas tank, be aware that the wires for the gages that were just removed in the step before are attached to the underside of the tank with loop that just needs to be bent a little to free the wires. The loop is on the right side of the tank and about 3-4 inches back from the front of the tank. There is also a small vent (?) tube attached on the underside of the rear of the tank near where the seat would be. It easily pulls off and you don't have to worry about any gas coming out. It really is very easy and not too intimidating. If you have any kind of mechanical ability at all, it should be no problem. The bike started up just fine without any kind of adjustments. And the bike definitely has a little more crispness in the throttle response. And this from Highmiles: Rejetting is not as intimidating as it sounds. Just take your time and handle everything with care and don't force anything. Dynojet's instructions are pretty clear. Here are the steps I recommend: 1. Remove seats & spark plug covers at carb side. 2. Disconnect speedometer from fuel tank (just the bottom 3 screws only). Position speedometer out of the way to remove fuel tank. 3. Disconnect the fuel hose at the bottom of the fuel switch. 4. Remove fuel tank mounting bolt and lift up back of tank and pull off fuel tank (this is actually pretty easy). 5. Remove Air box assembly (3 screws, 1 bolt and 2 hoses). 6. Remove vacuum cover (top of carb) & spring, pull out rubber boot. With a Phillips screwdriver, push down, turn and release the plastic piece. 7. Replace the stock needle with the Dynojet needle, install plastic piece and rubber boot (note tab alignment), replace stock spring with Dynojet spring and replace cover. Highmiles Continued below for maverickqs instructions. Rejetting is not as intimidating as it sounds. Just take your time and handle everything with care and don't force anything. Dynojet's instructions are pretty clear. Here are the steps I recommend: 1. Remove seats & spark plug covers at carb side. 2. Disconnect speedometer from fuel tank (just the bottom 3 screws only). Position speedometer out of the way to remove fuel tank. 3. Disconnect the fuel hose at the bottom of the fuel switch. 4. Remove fuel tank mounting bolt and lift up back of tank and pull off fuel tank (this is actually pretty easy). 5. Remove Air box assembly (3 screws, 1 bolt and 2 hoses). 6. Remove vacuum cover (top of carb)& spring, pull out rubber boot. With a phillips screwdriver, push down, turn and release the plastic piece. 7. Replace the stock needle with the Dynojet needle, install plastic piece and rubber boot (note tab alignment), replace stock spring with Dynojet spring and replace cover. 8. Unattach choke lever from bracket at left side of bike. 9. At behind of carb, loosen insulation band clamp at carb side. You may need to disconnect a vacuum hose to get access 11. Pull carb and tilt up to gain access to bottom. 12. Unattach linkage by removing cotter pin and washer. 13. Remove float cover and change main jet with Dynojet's. Be careful not to bend or damage the float. Dynojet's instruction have a pretty good picture. 14. Replace cover 15. Adjust pilot screw (Dynojet says 2 1/2 turns, but according to manual, factory setting is at 2 3/8 - pretty darn close) You're done! with the rejetting. Now just put everything back together. There's a notch on the carburetor that goes into a cutout in the rubber insulation hose for proper alignment. Pretty easy, eh. Hope this helps. Here's another picture with the vacuum cover off.
LAST ONE
SPREADSHEET BY RICH
Here is the latest Jetting Library and also a section I send out to who ever request the library. Rich
Jetting Library as of 1/31/06
Number
Airbox Mod
Exhaust Mod
Main Jet
Shims
Clip Location
Pilot Jet
No. Turns
Location
Elevation
Humidity
Temp.
Name
Dyno
HP/ftlbs
1
Extreme Revolution
V&H Bigshots
195
None
3rd Slot
Stock
2 1/2
Stillwater, OK
Glennok
Yes
2
Roadhouse Slipon
190
Green, KS
X-mF
No
3
Thunder Teardrop
200
4th Slot
2 1/4
Duluth, GA
1000'
Husker Red
4
Kury Hypercharger Pro
HK 2.5 American Classic
Willimantic, CT
LozTX
5
UtraFlow
Cobra Speedster longs
Wharton, NJ
coley
6
Beaver, PA
780
Blurple People Eater
7
210
2 3/4
Herndon, VA
500-800??
Sounder
8
Forcewinder
HK Kickers
Oconomowoc, WI
Bikerv2
9
Thunder Airbox
C.R.' s Mod stk pipes
Sarnia, Ontario, Canada
arthur lynas
10
11
Jammer intake
Cobra Drags
??
341
Memphis-X
12
Stock Airbox
HK 2.5
Lawrenceville, GA
Darrel
13
Middletown, NY
NYVTX
14
Sirem Air Filter
185
fennec
15
Hypercharger